The Taste of Isis: it's not what you think.

Place names can be unfortunate. France’s Anus, Boring Tennessee and Fucking in Austria are cases in point. The same can be said for some geological features: the Disappointment Islands of Polynesia, Dick Peaks Antarctica; and Faggot Hill Massachusetts come to mind. Some whole regions are cursed by odd names: the Arse district of Sumatra, Bong County Liberia and Hop Bottom Borough in Pennsylvania to name a few.

         Far from being immune to it, Australia is home to a generous collection of oddly named places. Some - Scone, Orange and Banana - are tasty enough. Others - Yorkeys Knob, Doo Town and Rooty Hill - are a little naughty. While Foul Bay, Dismal Swamp and Mount Warning speak for themselves.

         But we have one regional name that in recent times jars dangerously. I came upon it while working in country Queensland. After a week long trial I picked up a local tourist guide.  Inside an article implored me to ‘Discover the Taste of Isis’.

      The first line of the article immediately calmed the heart and explained. 'At the heart of the fertile Isis District is the newest wine-producing area in Queensland: Childers.' Of course a regional name that is shared by one of the world’s more recent manifestations of evil is not enough to deter the ‘wine-curious’. So my companion and I drove to Isis and chose a couple of wineries at random.

The first, the wonderfully quirky Brierley Wines, is a testament to what can be achieved with hard work and imagination. The country is rutted rather than rolling, covered in poor-looking wind-easy dirt overgrown with big, hard scrub. Even where it is cleared it does not look much like wine country. Access is via a freshly graded road sweeping through the scrub. It could be a road to nowhere in particular but friendly signs urge you onward. Then, a dusty carpark, six acres under vine and a small cellar door.

         Tony meets us, smiling, big-handed and hot from outdoor work earlier in the day. He introduces us to his reds produced primarily from Chambourcin, a French American hybrid grape. They are unsullied by preservatives, each bearing the striking labels designed by his daughter. We are told that because of their organic status, a partly finished bottle will not spoil overnight - information that is valueless to me.

The wine is earthy red coloured, medium bodied and tastes young, slightly sweet with the suggestion of cinnamon and clove. It’s pleasant enough and my choice would be to consume it as a nightcap. There are a few varieties including a shiraz blend which was my favourite. We bought a couple and left impressed: this wine is not a bad achievement coming as it does from a mere six acres of poor country in south east Queensland.

         Next we visited the Ohana Winery and tropical fruit farm perched on a ridge in slightly higher and more verdant country. Here the cellar door is attached to the house. Josh, one of the owners, served us. I was there to buy one specific product, jaboticaba tawny port made from the south American fruit known as the tropical grape. I buy a bottle for my father who once made wine from the same fruit. We leave, but not before being persuaded to try and buy The Reviver, a delicious coffee lacquer made from locally blended, cold filtered coffee.

         Finally, as an afterthought we stop by the Hill of Promise.  The cellar door is located in the hundred-year-old family home nestled in a lush garden of mature trees over looking a green valley. Mary, our delightful and wise host warns us how little a standard drink is and tells us of her husband’s Sicilian heritage. His forebears pioneered the property last century. We are told that once the wine was made from local vineyards but a succession of hailstorms bombarding the country in recent years put an end to that. Now grapes are brought in, but only those grown organically within the region. Hill of Plenty produces sparkling and still dry whites that delight, as well as liquors including one from warming ginger.

       

 There are other wineries around Childers but three very different, very good ones are enough for one day. Besides, it’s important to leave a little something for next time. So, Cheers Childers, thankyou and goodbye.